Replace the damaged drywall with a new panel or reinstall the sheet back in place and rescrew in new areas... keeping 1 foot apart and at least 1 inch away from old holes....use drywall compound to fill old holes . Drywall for vertical walls can be screwed every 16" in a grid pattern and along edges.
On sheets of 1/2" drywall,(or 5/8" for that matter) you may notice that the long edges are slightly tapered and less thick than 1/2"....they have a tapered edge which is only 3/8" at the edge thick to allow for coats of drywall mud to cover the joints with a smooth surface so it allows for an 1/8" of mud at the very edge and less so as you go a few inches inward. The edges can be somewhat harder to set the drywall screws so if the screw heads in those areas are flush or stick up less than 1/16", they will still be covered with mud and hold just as well as dimpling. I often go back after a sheet is installed with an impact or cordless drill and a #2 hardened bit and set the heads of screws along the edge slightly below the paper surface if they are hard to set with a dimpler.
Make sure the wood furring strips are attached firmly to ceiling joists....any screws or nails should extend at least 1" into the joists....I.E....if the wood strips are 3/4" thick, use 1 3/4"- 2" nails or screws to attach them to joists and predrill pilot holes for nails or screws in the strips so wood does not split if that is a problem on the ends.
Or not enough screws, you need to use a fair number for a ceiling.
You may want to go with another solution in a basement, though.
My wife and I screw in wood into ceiling joist then put on piece of 4X8ft 1/2'' thick ultra light Sheetrock dry wall into ceiling with 1-5/8 " drywall screw, with my wife and I holding it up I screw into the drywall into wood and let go then drywall falls or go through screw. What happened? Did we use the wrong screws? The screw tip touch the drywall.